12V 110A High Output Alternator - Land Cruiser HDJ81, HDJ80, HZJ80/81

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Article number:	DXA433M
Availability:	Out of stock

12Volt 110 Amp High Output Alternator for Land Cruiser HDJ80, HZJ80, HDJ81 / HZJ81 - fits the 1PZ, 1HZ, 1HDT, 1HDFT, 1HDFTE engines.

Please shop here instead: www.shopraddcruisers.ca

Alternators are shipped with full insurance which is included in the item cost.

Replace that old, tired anemic unit with this Brand New High Output 110 Amp Alternator

These are brand new aftermarket units. No core required.

**Please read the notes below for more information**

You will require a new "adjusting bar" (aka tensioning bracket) if you have an earlier model 1HDT/HDJ81 (prior to 1993 model year - ask if you are in doubt).

Note 1: The wiring from the alternator to the battery should be upgraded to take full advantage of the higher output and to prevent overheating your stock wiring. Ideally 4ga fine stranded copper wire should be used for runs or less than 5 feet, or 2ga for runs exceeding 5 feet.

The wiring from the alternator to the battery must be protected with an appropriately sized fusible link. Typically this is 4 wire gauges sizes smaller than the primary wire: ie: if you are using 4ga from your alternator to your battery, then your fusible link should be made from 8ga fusible link wire.

Note 2: The DXA433M uses an updated regulator that can used with 79, 80, and 100 Series Land Cruisers having either an active or inactive warning light circuit to drive a glow plug timer/relay. Using the provided harness will convert it to the inactive warning light type.

NB: For use in Japanese HDJ81s, use it in the 'active' position for the glow circuit and charge lamp.

Comes with the oval to round adapter plug to fit the different vintages.
The case of this alternator is larger than the early stock alternators and the belt tension adjustment bar/arm will need to be replaced.
On later models, around 1993, it's a fairly straightforward installation as these came with a larger cased alternator from the factory.
We have load tested these in our workshop and they can put out over 130 Amps cold (don’t do this at home!)

Notes: Ensure your batteries are fully charged and in good condition OR replaced with new units before hooking up this new alternator.

• Make sure your battery terminals and connections are in excellent condition. Ensure your frame and engine block ground points are clean and tight.

• Most JDMs arrive with ancient, low performing batteries still in place - the vast majority of these are junk. We recommend you install two new high quality group 27 (or larger) batteries in their place.

Weak or dead batteries is the No. 1 killer of alternators!

If you kill your new alternator by connecting it incorrectly, or to weak or dead batteries, there will be no warranty (yes, we can tell if you have done this upon inspection!)

Installation Instructions - provided by a helpful client:
Allow about 2 - 2.5 hours for installation. Plan your beer & pizza consumption accordingly.
NB: Disconnect your battery ground cables on both batteries before starting any work on your electrical system.
1. Remove the AC compressor from the bracket (and lay it aside) and the air filter cover to make the most room.
2. Remove fan before before loosening belts to make working room; it does not need to be taken out, just let it rest forward of the pulley.
3a. Loosen Tension bracket bolts fully (they don't come out due to fan), Remove the hinge bolt, unplug and disconnect your alternator wiring, remove the old alternator.
3b. If you have an earlier model, the new alternator is larger in diameter and requires a new bracket. You will need to remove the bolts holding the tension bracket to the block and install the new bracket.
4. At the alternator lower mount (where the hinge bolt inserts), tap the hinge bolt bushing forward slightly, about 2mm, to increase the gap available for new alternator lower mounting leg to insert into place. [The bushing is the small tube, with a flat surface one side, that is pressed in to the front hinge bolt hole of the lower mount.]
5. Insert the alternator into place on the lower mount - with space in the gap, it should go in easily. If it needs to be tapped in to place, gently use a dead blow hammer or a block of wood between the alternator and a ball-peen hammer.
6. Insert main hinge bolt in bottom.
7. Put belts in to place
8. Flip the tension block other way around than it was previously (you can tell by the circular scratches on the one side).
9. Insert the small adjuster screw through the tension block and into the alternator (do not tighten, just get it threaded).
10. Pull the alternator back to make belts hand-tight.
11. Insert the large adjuster screw and thread it into the adjuster tension block.
12. Tighten the 2 adjuster bracket bolts (they should now fit).
13. Tighten up the long adjuster bolt to appropriate tension, tighten down the smaller bolt through the tension block.
14. Put everything else back in place following the reverse procedures. Torque all fastener to specification.